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Cabled mittens Novita 7 Veljestä Napapiiri

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These mittens will keep your fingers from freezing in the wind. Knitted from 7 Veljestä Napapiiri yarn in the Wolverine (863) colourway, the cabled mittens feature an Indian thumb gusset.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 50
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N031850
Pattern details
Size
One size

Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä Napapiiri
(863) Wolverine 100 g

Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or
size needed to obtain gauge

Designer
Saara Toikka

Details

Left mitten

Starting at the beginning of a colour repeat, cast on 44 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.

Switch to stockinette st. On the first round, evenly increase 5 sts on needles III and IV = 54 sts.

Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: work the 22 sts on needles I and II in stockinette st and then work the 32 st cable pattern on needles III and IV. Keep repeating rows 1-12 of the chart.

After 3 rounds, redistribute the sts for an Indian thumb gusset: 4, 18, 16, and 16 sts.

Begin the gusset increases:

1st increase round: work the 4 sts on needle I, increase 1 st (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles I and II and knit it through the back loop onto needle I), work to end of round. 55 sts in total, 5 sts on needle I.

2nd increase round: work the 5 sts on needle I, increase 1 st (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles I and II and knit it onto needle I), work to end of round.

56 sts in total, 6 sts on needle I. Repeat the increases in this manner on every round until there are 22 sts on needle I.

Now leave the 18 sts on needle II on hold for the thumb. Redistribute the sts so that you have 11 sts on needles I and II.

Continue working the stitch patterns with the 54 sts until you have worked rows 1-12 a total of 3 times and then worked rows 1-4 once more (approx. 17 cm after the ribbing).

Work row 5 of the chart and at the same time decrease the purl sts: k2tog at the beginning of needle III and skp at the end of needle IV (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) = 52 sts.

Work rows 13-14 of the chart. 11 sts on each needle.

Work all sts in stockinette st and begin the top decreases: k1, skp at the beginning of needles I and III, and k2tog, k1 at the end of needles II and IV. Repeat the increases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

Thumb

Pick up and knit the sts on hold as well as 2 sts from the base of the thumb. Divide these 20 sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round, decreasing 1 st on each needle.

When you have worked for 4,5 cm or until the mitten covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases: k2tog at the end of each needle. Repeat the increases on every round until 4 sts remain. Then work 1 st and pass the other sts over from left to right. Break the yarn and securely weave in.

Right mitten

Cast on at the beginning of the same colour repeat as you did the left mitten. Work as the mirror image of the left mitten. Work the thumb gusset increases from between needles III and IV onto needle IV.

Finishing

Steam the mittens lightly.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Women

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing in the round:
*k1, p1*

Left mitten

Starting at the beginning of a colour repeat, cast on 44 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.

Switch to stockinette st. On the first round, evenly increase 5 sts on needles III and IV = 54 sts.

Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: work the 22 sts on needles I and II in stockinette st and then work the 32 st cable pattern on needles III and IV. Keep repeating rows 1-12 of the chart.

After 3 rounds, redistribute the sts for an Indian thumb gusset: 4, 18, 16, and 16 sts.

Begin the gusset increases:

1st increase round: work the 4 sts on needle I, increase 1 st (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles I and II and knit it through the back loop onto needle I), work to end of round. 55 sts in total, 5 sts on needle I.

2nd increase round: work the 5 sts on needle I, increase 1 st (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles I and II and knit it onto needle I), work to end of round.

56 sts in total, 6 sts on needle I. Repeat the increases in this manner on every round until there are 22 sts on needle I.

Now leave the 18 sts on needle II on hold for the thumb. Redistribute the sts so that you have 11 sts on needles I and II.

Continue working the stitch patterns with the 54 sts until you have worked rows 1-12 a total of 3 times and then worked rows 1-4 once more (approx. 17 cm after the ribbing).

Work row 5 of the chart and at the same time decrease the purl sts: k2tog at the beginning of needle III and skp at the end of needle IV (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) = 52 sts.

Work rows 13-14 of the chart. 11 sts on each needle.

Work all sts in stockinette st and begin the top decreases: k1, skp at the beginning of needles I and III, and k2tog, k1 at the end of needles II and IV. Repeat the increases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

Thumb

Pick up and knit the sts on hold as well as 2 sts from the base of the thumb. Divide these 20 sts onto three needles and work stockinette st in the round, decreasing 1 st on each needle.

When you have worked for 4,5 cm or until the mitten covers half your thumbnail, work the top decreases: k2tog at the end of each needle. Repeat the increases on every round until 4 sts remain. Then work 1 st and pass the other sts over from left to right. Break the yarn and securely weave in.

Right mitten

Cast on at the beginning of the same colour repeat as you did the left mitten. Work as the mirror image of the left mitten. Work the thumb gusset increases from between needles III and IV onto needle IV.

Finishing

Steam the mittens lightly.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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