Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Cabled Hearts Socks Novita 7 Veljestä
As low as €6.96
The long woollen socks, from Novita 7 Veljestä, feature a lovely pattern of decorative hearts.
Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
28
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N041628
Size
1 SizeYarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestäoff white slightly less than 250 g
Needles and other supplies
NeedlesSet of 5 double pointed needles 3.5 mm
Or the size to give you the correct tension.
Designer
Saara ToikkaCast on 72 sts for the cuff and divide the sts onto four needles, 18 sts on each. Start working in rib stitch in the round. The beginning of the round will be between the fourth and first needle.
When the rib measures 4 cm, start following the chart at row 1 in the following way: work 8 sts in moss st, work the 20 st pattern repeat twice, work the last 16 sts of the chart and work 8 sts in moss st. Keep repeating rows 1-24 of the chart.
When the cuff measures 12 cm, work in the following way:
Next round: Work 6 sts in pattern, work 2 sts together in pattern, work 56 sts following the chart, work 2 sts together in pattern and work in pattern to end.
Repeat these decreases every 3 cm for 7 times more. You have now 56 sts on the needles and the sts of the moss stitch section have been decreased.
When you have worked chart rows 1-24 for 4 times, divide the sts onto needles in the following way: 12 sts onto the first needle, 16 sts onto the second and third needle, and 12 sts onto the fourth needle.
Start working the heel flap by purling the sts on the first needle onto the fourth needle (= 24 sts) and leaving the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Turn work and start working a reinforced heel flap:
Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to end. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked them for 12 times (= 24 rows).
Next row: P to end.
Continue working in the reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for the heel turn:
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9 sts, skp. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6, p2tog. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 8 sts, skp. Turn work.
Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8 centre sts until you have only the 8 centre sts left. Then, divide the heel flap sts onto two needles (4 sts on each).
Next, with the aid of the fifth needle pick up 12 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the heel flap and the second needle and knit them through back loop onto the left heel flap needle.
Then, work the sts on the second and third needle in the following way: k2tog, k2, skp, k2tog, work 16 sts following the cable chart, skp, k2tog, k2, k2tog (you have now 13 sts on both needles).
Next, pick up 1 st between the third needle and the heel flap + 12 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop with the aid of the right heel flap needle. Knit the first 4 sts of the heel flap.
Next, work in st st in the round except for the cable panel follow rows 2-24 of the chart. At the same time, start decreasing for the gusset:
Decrease round: K to last 2 sts on the first needle, k2tog, work to the fourth needle, skp, k to end.
Repeat these decreases every other round until you have 11 sts on the first and fourth needle. Then, divide the sts so that you have 12 sts on each needle. When you have completed row 24 of the chart, start working in st st with all sts.
When the bottom measures 20 cm or the little toe is covered, start decreasing for the toe:
Row 1: First needle: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; second needle: k1, skp, k to end; third needle: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; fourth needle: k1, skp, k to end.
Row 2: K to end.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have 6 sts on each needle. After that, keep repeating only row 1 until you have 8 sts left. Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Steam block gently.
Finished dimensions
women's shoe size 5Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patternsRib stitch in the round
All rounds: *K1, p1*, repeat *-* to end.
Cable stitch pattern in the round
Follow the chart and written instructions.
Moss stitch in the round
Round 1: *P1, k1, repeat *-* to end.
Round 2: *K1, p1*
Cast on 72 sts for the cuff and divide the sts onto four needles, 18 sts on each. Start working in rib stitch in the round. The beginning of the round will be between the fourth and first needle.
When the rib measures 4 cm, start following the chart at row 1 in the following way: work 8 sts in moss st, work the 20 st pattern repeat twice, work the last 16 sts of the chart and work 8 sts in moss st. Keep repeating rows 1-24 of the chart.
When the cuff measures 12 cm, work in the following way:
Next round: Work 6 sts in pattern, work 2 sts together in pattern, work 56 sts following the chart, work 2 sts together in pattern and work in pattern to end.
Repeat these decreases every 3 cm for 7 times more. You have now 56 sts on the needles and the sts of the moss stitch section have been decreased.
When you have worked chart rows 1-24 for 4 times, divide the sts onto needles in the following way: 12 sts onto the first needle, 16 sts onto the second and third needle, and 12 sts onto the fourth needle.
Start working the heel flap by purling the sts on the first needle onto the fourth needle (= 24 sts) and leaving the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Turn work and start working a reinforced heel flap:
Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to end. Turn work.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked them for 12 times (= 24 rows).
Next row: P to end.
Continue working in the reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for the heel turn:
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9 sts, skp. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6, p2tog. Turn work.
Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 8 sts, skp. Turn work.
Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8 centre sts until you have only the 8 centre sts left. Then, divide the heel flap sts onto two needles (4 sts on each).
Next, with the aid of the fifth needle pick up 12 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the heel flap and the second needle and knit them through back loop onto the left heel flap needle.
Then, work the sts on the second and third needle in the following way: k2tog, k2, skp, k2tog, work 16 sts following the cable chart, skp, k2tog, k2, k2tog (you have now 13 sts on both needles).
Next, pick up 1 st between the third needle and the heel flap + 12 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop with the aid of the right heel flap needle. Knit the first 4 sts of the heel flap.
Next, work in st st in the round except for the cable panel follow rows 2-24 of the chart. At the same time, start decreasing for the gusset:
Decrease round: K to last 2 sts on the first needle, k2tog, work to the fourth needle, skp, k to end.
Repeat these decreases every other round until you have 11 sts on the first and fourth needle. Then, divide the sts so that you have 12 sts on each needle. When you have completed row 24 of the chart, start working in st st with all sts.
When the bottom measures 20 cm or the little toe is covered, start decreasing for the toe:
Row 1: First needle: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; second needle: k1, skp, k to end; third needle: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; fourth needle: k1, skp, k to end.
Row 2: K to end.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have 6 sts on each needle. After that, keep repeating only row 1 until you have 8 sts left. Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.
Make another sock to match.
Finishing
Steam block gently.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
Write Your Own Review