Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €5.95
Availability: In stock
Rib in round: *K1,P1,rep from* to end.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Pattern st in round:
Rnd 1-3: purl.
Rnd 4-6: knit. Rep rnds 1-6.
Moss stitch in round:
Rnd 1: *K1,P1, rep from * to end.
Rnd 2: *P1, K1, rep from * to end. Rep rnds 1-2.
Cable pattern: See chart.
20 sts and 20 rows to 10 cm measured over pattern st.
Note: Wrist warmers are worked in round except for the area of thumb opening which is worked flat. Meeting and separation of the cables is achieved by increasing and decreasing stitches in between cables.
Using double-pointed needles cast on 49 sts loosely. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows:
Beg and ending rnds as indicated, work in rib and patt from chart as folls:
Rnd 1: work 17 sts in rib, P2, work cable A (=9 sts), P2, work 6 sts in moss st, P2, work cable B (=9 sts), P2. Rep rnds 1-8.
AT THE SAME TIME after 9 rnds have been completed cont 17 sts in pattern st instead of rib (=Rnd 2).
Work 1 rnd. Beg increases and decreases in between cables as folls:
Rnd 4: work 17 sts in pattern st, P1, M1P (make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and purling into back of it), P1, work cable A (=9 sts), P2tog, work 6 sts in moss st, P2tog, work cable B (=9 sts), P1, M1P, P1.
Rep decreases and increases every 4th rnd that is on rnd 4 and rnd 8 of chart. Purl 2 sts at both sides of cables, increase sts into pattern st and decrease sts from moss st.
Amount of sts is always 49.
Work until 2 purled sts are left in between cables.
Next rnd (rnd 4 or 8): work 21 in pattern st, P1, M1P,P1, K8, sl1, K1, psso, K2tog, K8, P1, M1P, P1, work 4 sts in pattern st.
Work 3 rnds.
Next rnd (rnd 4 or 8): work 21 in pattern st, P2tog, work cable A (=9 sts), M1P, work cable B (=9 sts),P2tog, work 4 sts in pattern st.
Next rnd (rnd 5 or 1): work 21 in pattern st, P1, work cable A (=9 sts), M1P, work cable B (=9 sts),P1, work 4 sts in pattern st.
Rep decreases and increases every 4th rnd that is on rnd 4 and rnd 8 of chart. Purl 2 sts at both sides of cables. When there is 6 sts in between cables, beg working them in moss st.
Work until there is 10 sts (=P2, 6 sts of moss st, P2) in between cables.
Work 11 rnds without increases and decreases.
Beg increases and decreases in between cables as folls:
Rnd 4: work 17 sts in pattern st, P1, M1P, P1, work cable A (=9 sts), P2tog, work 6 sts in moss st, P2tog, work cable B (=9 sts), P1, M1P, P1.
Rep decreases and increases every 4th rnd that is on rnd 4 and rnd 8 of chart. Purl 2 sts at both sides of cables, increase sts into pattern st and decrease sts from moss st.
Work until wrist warmer meas 24 cm. Cont working flat to form a thumb opening.
Turn at the end of rnd so that uneven rnd of chart is on the WS. Cont in patt as established including increases and decreases. Work flat 3,5 cm. Cont working in round.
Work until wrist warmer meas 28 cm and there is 10 sts (=P2, 6 sts of moss st, P2) in between cables. Cont 17 sts in rib st instead of pattern st. Work 10 rnds without increases and decreases. Cast off sts.
Work as right wrist warmer. Make thumb opening on the other side of cables reversing shaping.
Lightly steam the wrist warmers.
Rib in round: *K1,P1,rep from* to end.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Pattern st in round:
Rnd 1-3: purl.
Rnd 4-6: knit. Rep rnds 1-6.
Moss stitch in round:
Rnd 1: *K1,P1, rep from * to end.
Rnd 2: *P1, K1, rep from * to end. Rep rnds 1-2.
Cable pattern: See chart.
20 sts and 20 rows to 10 cm measured over pattern st.
Note: Wrist warmers are worked in round except for the area of thumb opening which is worked flat. Meeting and separation of the cables is achieved by increasing and decreasing stitches in between cables.
Using double-pointed needles cast on 49 sts loosely. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows:
Beg and ending rnds as indicated, work in rib and patt from chart as folls:
Rnd 1: work 17 sts in rib, P2, work cable A (=9 sts), P2, work 6 sts in moss st, P2, work cable B (=9 sts), P2. Rep rnds 1-8.
AT THE SAME TIME after 9 rnds have been completed cont 17 sts in pattern st instead of rib (=Rnd 2).
Work 1 rnd. Beg increases and decreases in between cables as folls:
Rnd 4: work 17 sts in pattern st, P1, M1P (make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and purling into back of it), P1, work cable A (=9 sts), P2tog, work 6 sts in moss st, P2tog, work cable B (=9 sts), P1, M1P, P1.
Rep decreases and increases every 4th rnd that is on rnd 4 and rnd 8 of chart. Purl 2 sts at both sides of cables, increase sts into pattern st and decrease sts from moss st.
Amount of sts is always 49.
Work until 2 purled sts are left in between cables.
Next rnd (rnd 4 or 8): work 21 in pattern st, P1, M1P,P1, K8, sl1, K1, psso, K2tog, K8, P1, M1P, P1, work 4 sts in pattern st.
Work 3 rnds.
Next rnd (rnd 4 or 8): work 21 in pattern st, P2tog, work cable A (=9 sts), M1P, work cable B (=9 sts),P2tog, work 4 sts in pattern st.
Next rnd (rnd 5 or 1): work 21 in pattern st, P1, work cable A (=9 sts), M1P, work cable B (=9 sts),P1, work 4 sts in pattern st.
Rep decreases and increases every 4th rnd that is on rnd 4 and rnd 8 of chart. Purl 2 sts at both sides of cables. When there is 6 sts in between cables, beg working them in moss st.
Work until there is 10 sts (=P2, 6 sts of moss st, P2) in between cables.
Work 11 rnds without increases and decreases.
Beg increases and decreases in between cables as folls:
Rnd 4: work 17 sts in pattern st, P1, M1P, P1, work cable A (=9 sts), P2tog, work 6 sts in moss st, P2tog, work cable B (=9 sts), P1, M1P, P1.
Rep decreases and increases every 4th rnd that is on rnd 4 and rnd 8 of chart. Purl 2 sts at both sides of cables, increase sts into pattern st and decrease sts from moss st.
Work until wrist warmer meas 24 cm. Cont working flat to form a thumb opening.
Turn at the end of rnd so that uneven rnd of chart is on the WS. Cont in patt as established including increases and decreases. Work flat 3,5 cm. Cont working in round.
Work until wrist warmer meas 28 cm and there is 10 sts (=P2, 6 sts of moss st, P2) in between cables. Cont 17 sts in rib st instead of pattern st. Work 10 rnds without increases and decreases. Cast off sts.
Work as right wrist warmer. Make thumb opening on the other side of cables reversing shaping.
Lightly steam the wrist warmers.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.