Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Rib in round: *K2,P2, rep from* to end.
Reversed stocking stitch in round: purl all rows.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Cable pattern in round: See chart. Rep rnds 1-16.
20 sts to 10 cm measured over stocking st
C4B: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to back of work, K2, K2 from cable needle
C4F: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to front of work, K2, K2 from cable needle
CK2P2: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to back of work, K2, P2 from cable needle
CP2K2: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to front of work, P2, K2 from cable needle
Row 1: P2, K4, P4, K4, P4, K4, P2
Row 2: P2, C4B, P4, C4B, P4, C4B, P2
Row 3: as row 1
Row 4: (CK2P2, CP2K2) 3 times
Row 5: K2, P4, K4, P4, K4, P4, K2
Row 6: K2, P4, C4F, P4, C4F, P4, K2
Row 7: as row 5
Row 8: K2, P2, (CK2P2, CP2K2) twice, P2,K2
Row 9: K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2
Row 10: K2, P2, K2, P4, C4B, P4, K2, P2, K2
Row 11: K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2
Row 12: K2, P2, (CP2K2, CK2P2) twice, P2, K2
Row 13: K2, P4, K4, P4, K4, P4, K2
Row 14: K2, P4, C4F, P4, C4F, P4, K2
Row 15: K2, P4, K4, P4, K4, P4, K2
Row 16: (CP2K2, CK2P2) 3 times
Using double-pointed needles cast on 68[80] sts loosely. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles ( 17[20] sts on each needle) and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows:
Round 1 (RS): Knit in rib for 30[38] sts (start and end with K2), P7[9], work 24 st patt from chart, P7[9]. Continue as indicated and repeat rows 1.-16. from chart on 24sts. When leg measures 8 [10] cm, decrease as foll:
Knit in rib for 30[38] sts (start and end with K2), P5[7], P2tog, work 24 st patt from chart, P2tog, P5[7]. Rep decrease row in 5 cm intervals 4 (6) times more =58[66] sts. When leg measures 28[40] cm, decrease evenly 10[12] sts in rib =48[54] sts.
Start the heel flap. Re-distribute sts so there are 20[26] sts of rib on one needle, leave the rest of the sts on hold. Turn. Leave sts on needle II. and III.waiting. Work the 20[26] heel sts back and forth in rows as folls:
Row 1 (WS): purl. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): *slip 1 st (with yarn held in back), K1, rep from *. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): purl. Turn.
Row 4 (RS): * K1, slip 1 st (with yarn held in back) , rep from *.
These 4 rows form heel pattern.
Rep rows 1-4 until you have completed 20[26] rows.
Row 1 (WS): purl.
Row 2 (RS): Knit in heel pattern for 13[17] sts, sl 1, K1, psso. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl 1, P6[8], P2tog. Turn.
Row 4 (RS): Sl 1, knit in heel pattern for 6[8] sts, sl 1, K1, psso. Turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until you have decreased sts on both sides, 8 [10] sts are left in the middle. End with RS row. These sts form the bottom of the heel.
Divide heel sts onto needle I. =4[5] sts and needle IV. =4[5] sts.
Needle I. : K4[5], pick up and knit 10[13] sts along left edge of heel flap
Needle II. and III.: work 28 st patt from chart
Needle IV: pick up and knit 11[14] sts along right edge of heel flap, K4[5]
Join for working in rnds =57[65] sts . Work sts as folls:
K14[18], P2, work 24 st patt from chart, P2, K15[19].
Dec rnd 1: Needle I. : work until you have 2 sts left on needle I., K2tog
Needle II. and III.: P2, work 24 st patt from chart, P2
Needle IV: sl1,K1,psso, work to end.
Rep dec rnd every rnd once (twice).
Rep dec rnd every 3rd rnd until the amount of sts is 22[28].
Cont working until foot meas 20 cm or until foot covers your little toe.
Round 1: K9[12], K2tog, K2, sl 1, K1, psso, 20 sts in pattern from chart, sl 1, K1, psso, K2, K2tog, K9[12].
Round 2: Work sts as indicated.
Round 3: K8[11], K2tog, K2, sl 1, K1, psso, 18 sts in pattern from chart, sl 1, K1, psso, K2, K2tog, K8[11].
Repeat decreases as indicated on foll alt round twice (four times) more, then on every round. When you are knitting last two cable rounds, K2tog from cable needle while held at back of work. When you have 8[10] sts left, break yarn leaving a long end. Pull end through all sts and tighten it. Weave in all ends.
Rib in round: *K2,P2, rep from* to end.
Reversed stocking stitch in round: purl all rows.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Cable pattern in round: See chart. Rep rnds 1-16.
20 sts to 10 cm measured over stocking st
C4B: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to back of work, K2, K2 from cable needle
C4F: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to front of work, K2, K2 from cable needle
CK2P2: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to back of work, K2, P2 from cable needle
CP2K2: slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and put to front of work, P2, K2 from cable needle
Row 1: P2, K4, P4, K4, P4, K4, P2
Row 2: P2, C4B, P4, C4B, P4, C4B, P2
Row 3: as row 1
Row 4: (CK2P2, CP2K2) 3 times
Row 5: K2, P4, K4, P4, K4, P4, K2
Row 6: K2, P4, C4F, P4, C4F, P4, K2
Row 7: as row 5
Row 8: K2, P2, (CK2P2, CP2K2) twice, P2,K2
Row 9: K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2
Row 10: K2, P2, K2, P4, C4B, P4, K2, P2, K2
Row 11: K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2
Row 12: K2, P2, (CP2K2, CK2P2) twice, P2, K2
Row 13: K2, P4, K4, P4, K4, P4, K2
Row 14: K2, P4, C4F, P4, C4F, P4, K2
Row 15: K2, P4, K4, P4, K4, P4, K2
Row 16: (CP2K2, CK2P2) 3 times
Using double-pointed needles cast on 68[80] sts loosely. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles ( 17[20] sts on each needle) and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows:
Round 1 (RS): Knit in rib for 30[38] sts (start and end with K2), P7[9], work 24 st patt from chart, P7[9]. Continue as indicated and repeat rows 1.-16. from chart on 24sts. When leg measures 8 [10] cm, decrease as foll:
Knit in rib for 30[38] sts (start and end with K2), P5[7], P2tog, work 24 st patt from chart, P2tog, P5[7]. Rep decrease row in 5 cm intervals 4 (6) times more =58[66] sts. When leg measures 28[40] cm, decrease evenly 10[12] sts in rib =48[54] sts.
Start the heel flap. Re-distribute sts so there are 20[26] sts of rib on one needle, leave the rest of the sts on hold. Turn. Leave sts on needle II. and III.waiting. Work the 20[26] heel sts back and forth in rows as folls:
Row 1 (WS): purl. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): *slip 1 st (with yarn held in back), K1, rep from *. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): purl. Turn.
Row 4 (RS): * K1, slip 1 st (with yarn held in back) , rep from *.
These 4 rows form heel pattern.
Rep rows 1-4 until you have completed 20[26] rows.
Row 1 (WS): purl.
Row 2 (RS): Knit in heel pattern for 13[17] sts, sl 1, K1, psso. Turn.
Row 3 (WS): Sl 1, P6[8], P2tog. Turn.
Row 4 (RS): Sl 1, knit in heel pattern for 6[8] sts, sl 1, K1, psso. Turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 until you have decreased sts on both sides, 8 [10] sts are left in the middle. End with RS row. These sts form the bottom of the heel.
Divide heel sts onto needle I. =4[5] sts and needle IV. =4[5] sts.
Needle I. : K4[5], pick up and knit 10[13] sts along left edge of heel flap
Needle II. and III.: work 28 st patt from chart
Needle IV: pick up and knit 11[14] sts along right edge of heel flap, K4[5]
Join for working in rnds =57[65] sts . Work sts as folls:
K14[18], P2, work 24 st patt from chart, P2, K15[19].
Dec rnd 1: Needle I. : work until you have 2 sts left on needle I., K2tog
Needle II. and III.: P2, work 24 st patt from chart, P2
Needle IV: sl1,K1,psso, work to end.
Rep dec rnd every rnd once (twice).
Rep dec rnd every 3rd rnd until the amount of sts is 22[28].
Cont working until foot meas 20 cm or until foot covers your little toe.
Round 1: K9[12], K2tog, K2, sl 1, K1, psso, 20 sts in pattern from chart, sl 1, K1, psso, K2, K2tog, K9[12].
Round 2: Work sts as indicated.
Round 3: K8[11], K2tog, K2, sl 1, K1, psso, 18 sts in pattern from chart, sl 1, K1, psso, K2, K2tog, K8[11].
Repeat decreases as indicated on foll alt round twice (four times) more, then on every round. When you are knitting last two cable rounds, K2tog from cable needle while held at back of work. When you have 8[10] sts left, break yarn leaving a long end. Pull end through all sts and tighten it. Weave in all ends.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.