Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Using 5 mm circular needles cast on 120 sts. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. in round as folls: Rnd 1: Work 15 st patt 8 times. Cont in patt and work rows 1.-14. After last decrease in row 14, K1. This is where the new rnd starts now. (=104sts). Work 2 rows in Stocking stitch in round: (Knit all sts.) Work decreases as foll: * K10, sl2, K1, psso,rep from * until the end of the rnd, K1. This is where the new rnd starts now. (=88sts). Work stocking stitch in round about 10cm.
RS: Cast on 5sts at the end of the row. Turn. WS: K4,P2,K2,P12,K2, purl until you have 17sts left on your left hand needle, K2, P12, K2, P1, cast on 5sts at the end of the row (=98sts).
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart II. as folls:(RS):
Row 1: Work 22st patt as indicated in chart (from right edge), work 54 sts in stocking st, work 22st patt from chart reversing it. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1.-12. 4 times and AT THE SAME TIME sl1 purlwise on both edges on RS (=edge st, this st is included in the patt).
Next row (RS): Start decreases in the middle of the hood as foll:
Row 1: work 45sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, work 45sts in patt (=96sts).
Work 1 row in patt.
Row 3: work 44sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, work 44sts in patt (=94sts).
Work 1 row in patt.
Row 5: work 43sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, work 43sts in patt (=92sts).
Work 1 row in patt.
Row 7: Start working short rows as foll: work 42sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, * turn, (WS:) P7. Turn. K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, rep from * until you have 50sts left (=22st patt+6sts of back+22st patt). Cast off 6 sts in the middle of the hood (=back). Work both cable edges(=22st patt each) separately for 1,5cm. Use three-needle cast off to join the seams or cast off all sts and join seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Join the cable-edge to the hood using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Join seams at the bottom of the hood opening(=under the chin) using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Weave in all ends. Steam the hood lightly.
Using 5 mm circular needles cast on 120 sts. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. in round as folls: Rnd 1: Work 15 st patt 8 times. Cont in patt and work rows 1.-14. After last decrease in row 14, K1. This is where the new rnd starts now. (=104sts). Work 2 rows in Stocking stitch in round: (Knit all sts.) Work decreases as foll: * K10, sl2, K1, psso,rep from * until the end of the rnd, K1. This is where the new rnd starts now. (=88sts). Work stocking stitch in round about 10cm.
RS: Cast on 5sts at the end of the row. Turn. WS: K4,P2,K2,P12,K2, purl until you have 17sts left on your left hand needle, K2, P12, K2, P1, cast on 5sts at the end of the row (=98sts).
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart II. as folls:(RS):
Row 1: Work 22st patt as indicated in chart (from right edge), work 54 sts in stocking st, work 22st patt from chart reversing it. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1.-12. 4 times and AT THE SAME TIME sl1 purlwise on both edges on RS (=edge st, this st is included in the patt).
Next row (RS): Start decreases in the middle of the hood as foll:
Row 1: work 45sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, work 45sts in patt (=96sts).
Work 1 row in patt.
Row 3: work 44sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, work 44sts in patt (=94sts).
Work 1 row in patt.
Row 5: work 43sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, work 43sts in patt (=92sts).
Work 1 row in patt.
Row 7: Start working short rows as foll: work 42sts in patt, K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, * turn, (WS:) P7. Turn. K2tog, K4, sl1,K1,psso, rep from * until you have 50sts left (=22st patt+6sts of back+22st patt). Cast off 6 sts in the middle of the hood (=back). Work both cable edges(=22st patt each) separately for 1,5cm. Use three-needle cast off to join the seams or cast off all sts and join seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Join the cable-edge to the hood using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Join seams at the bottom of the hood opening(=under the chin) using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Weave in all ends. Steam the hood lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.