Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Bobble cardigan Novita Natura
As low as €6.96
Knitted from the 100 % wool yarn Novita Natura, this soft, one-coloured cardigan features bobbles in abundance and a cool little bonus - thumb holes in the cuffs.
Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
17
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N012017
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)Yarn demand
Novita Natura(045) Clay 550(600)650(700)750(800) g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needle(80 cm / 32 in) Novita 6 mm (UK 4 / US 10) or size needed;
5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) needles for the cuffs
Other supplies
10 buttons
Designer
Anna LeinonenBack
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 78(82)90(94)102(106) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(k2)p2(p2)k2(k2). Work ribbing for 5 rows.
Now work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row evenly increase 1(3)1(3)1(3) st(s) = 79(85)91(97)103(109) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31(32) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: on a RS row k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 5 cm 5 more times = 67(73)79(85)91(97) sts.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 52(52)52(55)55(55) cm and you have last worked either row 6 or 14 of chart I, continue on row 7 (after row 6) or 15 (after row 14) of chart II. After row 16, keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 58(59)60(61)63(64) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x5 sts (1x7 sts) at both ends. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every 4th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times and then on every other row 18(23)25(26)26(27) times.
Bind off the remaining 25(25)25(27)27(27) sts.
Pockets
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 24 sts and work stockinette st for 18 cm. Leave the sts on hold.
Knit another pocket in the same manner.
Left front
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 37(41)43(47)49(53) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work ribbing for 5 rows.
Now work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1(0)1(0)1(0) st = 38(41)44(47)50(53) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 25(26)27(28)29(30) cm, on a RS row work 3(6)7(8)11(11) sts in bobble pattern, work next 24 sts in ribbing for the pocket opening, work to end. Keep working the bobble pattern at both ends while working 3 more rows of ribbing with the 24 sts. On the next row bind off the 24 sts in pattern and pick up the 24 pocket sts in their place.
Work bobble pattern with all sts.
Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31(32) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end: on a RS row k1, skp, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 5 cm 5 more times = 32(35)38(41)44(47) sts.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 52(52)52(55)55(55) cm and you have last worked either row 6 or 14 of chart I, continue on row 7 (after row 6) or 15 (after row 14) of chart II. After row 16, keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 58(59)60(61)63(64) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x5 sts (1x7 sts) at the right end. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row k2, skp, work to end. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times and then on every other row 18(23)25(26)26(27) times.
Note: When the raglan section measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off 1x6(6)6(7)7(7) sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at the left end for the neckline.
Right front
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 37(41)43(47)49(53) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(k2)p2(p2)k2(k2). Work ribbing for 5 rows.
Now work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1(0)1(0)1(0) st = 38(41)44(47)50(53) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with a red arrow at the top. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 25(26)27(28)29(30) cm, on a RS row work 11(11)13(15)15(18) sts at front edge in bobble pattern, work next 24 sts in ribbing for the pocket opening, work to end. Keep working the bobble pattern at both ends while working 3 more rows of ribbing with the 24 sts. On the next row bind off the 24 sts in pattern and pick up the 24 pocket sts in their place.
Work bobble pattern with all sts.
Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31(32) cm, decrease 1 st at the left end: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease every 5 cm 5 more times = 32(35)38(41)44(47) sts.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 52(52)52(55)55(55) cm and you have last worked either row 6 or 14 of chart I, continue on row 7 (after row 6) or 15 (after row 14) of chart II. After row 16, keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 58(59)60(61)63(64) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x5 sts (1x7 sts) at the left end. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times and then on every other row 18(23)25(26)26(27) times.
Note: When the raglan section measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off 1x6(6)6(7)7(7) sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at the right end for the neckline.
Sleeves
Using the 5 mm needles cast on 34(36)38(38)38(40) sts and work ribbing for 15 cm.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1 st = 35(37)39(39)39(41) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 19(19)19(19)18(18) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4(4)4(4)3(3) cm 7(8)6(4)12(12) more times and then 1(0)3(6)0(0) time(s) every 3(3)3(3)2(2) cm = 53(55)59(61)65(67) sts. Work the increased sts following the chart.
When the piece measures 53(54)55(56)56(57) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x4 sts (1x6 sts) at both ends. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every other row 19(20)21(18)18(15) more times and then on every 4th row 2(2)2(4)4(6) times. Bind off the remaining 9(9)9(11)11(11) sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the raglan seams.
Neckline: Using the 6 mm needles pick up 80(80)80(84)84(84) sts from along the neckline and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*, p3. Work ribbing for 14 cm, then bind off in pattern.
Buttonbands: Using the 6 mm needles pick up sts from the left front and the ribbed neckline, 3 sts per 4 rows. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 4. Begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*, p3. Work ribbing for 5 rows, then bind off in pattern.
Place markers for 10 buttons on the buttonband. The top button should be 2 cm from the top edge and the other 9 at approx. 9 cm intervals.
Pick up sts from the right front in the same manner. Work ribbing for 2 rows. Knit buttonholes at the marked spots as follows: k2tog, yarn over. Work ribbing for 2 rows, then bind off in pattern.
Sew the side seams and sleeve seams: sew 5 cm beginning at the cuff, leave a 4 cm hole for the thumb, sew the rest of the sleeve seam and the side seam.
Sew the pockets to the WS. Sew on the buttons.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 88(96)104(112)120(128) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(44)47¼(50½) in middle back length 81(83)85(87)89(91) cm / 32(32¾)33½(34¼)35(35¾) in inner sleeve length 38(39)40(41)41(42) cm + 15 cm (cuff) / 15(15¼)15¾(16¼)16¼(16½) in + 6 in (cuff)Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns- Ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows
Back
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 78(82)90(94)102(106) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(k2)p2(p2)k2(k2). Work ribbing for 5 rows.
Now work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row evenly increase 1(3)1(3)1(3) st(s) = 79(85)91(97)103(109) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31(32) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: on a RS row k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 5 cm 5 more times = 67(73)79(85)91(97) sts.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 52(52)52(55)55(55) cm and you have last worked either row 6 or 14 of chart I, continue on row 7 (after row 6) or 15 (after row 14) of chart II. After row 16, keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 58(59)60(61)63(64) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x5 sts (1x7 sts) at both ends. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every 4th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times and then on every other row 18(23)25(26)26(27) times.
Bind off the remaining 25(25)25(27)27(27) sts.
Pockets
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 24 sts and work stockinette st for 18 cm. Leave the sts on hold.
Knit another pocket in the same manner.
Left front
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 37(41)43(47)49(53) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work ribbing for 5 rows.
Now work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1(0)1(0)1(0) st = 38(41)44(47)50(53) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 25(26)27(28)29(30) cm, on a RS row work 3(6)7(8)11(11) sts in bobble pattern, work next 24 sts in ribbing for the pocket opening, work to end. Keep working the bobble pattern at both ends while working 3 more rows of ribbing with the 24 sts. On the next row bind off the 24 sts in pattern and pick up the 24 pocket sts in their place.
Work bobble pattern with all sts.
Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31(32) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end: on a RS row k1, skp, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 5 cm 5 more times = 32(35)38(41)44(47) sts.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 52(52)52(55)55(55) cm and you have last worked either row 6 or 14 of chart I, continue on row 7 (after row 6) or 15 (after row 14) of chart II. After row 16, keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 58(59)60(61)63(64) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x5 sts (1x7 sts) at the right end. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row k2, skp, work to end. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times and then on every other row 18(23)25(26)26(27) times.
Note: When the raglan section measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off 1x6(6)6(7)7(7) sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at the left end for the neckline.
Right front
Using the 6 mm needles cast on 37(41)43(47)49(53) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k2(k2)p2(p2)k2(k2). Work ribbing for 5 rows.
Now work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1(0)1(0)1(0) st = 38(41)44(47)50(53) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with a red arrow at the top. Keep repeating the 10 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 25(26)27(28)29(30) cm, on a RS row work 11(11)13(15)15(18) sts at front edge in bobble pattern, work next 24 sts in ribbing for the pocket opening, work to end. Keep working the bobble pattern at both ends while working 3 more rows of ribbing with the 24 sts. On the next row bind off the 24 sts in pattern and pick up the 24 pocket sts in their place.
Work bobble pattern with all sts.
Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31(32) cm, decrease 1 st at the left end: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease every 5 cm 5 more times = 32(35)38(41)44(47) sts.
Note: When the piece measures approx. 52(52)52(55)55(55) cm and you have last worked either row 6 or 14 of chart I, continue on row 7 (after row 6) or 15 (after row 14) of chart II. After row 16, keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 58(59)60(61)63(64) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x5 sts (1x7 sts) at the left end. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 2(0)0(0)0(0) more times and then on every other row 18(23)25(26)26(27) times.
Note: When the raglan section measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, on every other row bind off 1x6(6)6(7)7(7) sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at the right end for the neckline.
Sleeves
Using the 5 mm needles cast on 34(36)38(38)38(40) sts and work ribbing for 15 cm.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1 st = 35(37)39(39)39(41) sts.
Begin the bobble pattern on row 1 of chart I. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 19(19)19(19)18(18) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4(4)4(4)3(3) cm 7(8)6(4)12(12) more times and then 1(0)3(6)0(0) time(s) every 3(3)3(3)2(2) cm = 53(55)59(61)65(67) sts. Work the increased sts following the chart.
When the piece measures 53(54)55(56)56(57) cm, on sizes M, L, XL and XXL bind off 1x1 st (1x2 sts) 1x4 sts (1x6 sts) at both ends. Begin raglan decreases: on a RS row k2, skp, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Repeat the decreases on every other row 19(20)21(18)18(15) more times and then on every 4th row 2(2)2(4)4(6) times. Bind off the remaining 9(9)9(11)11(11) sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the raglan seams.
Neckline: Using the 6 mm needles pick up 80(80)80(84)84(84) sts from along the neckline and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*, p3. Work ribbing for 14 cm, then bind off in pattern.
Buttonbands: Using the 6 mm needles pick up sts from the left front and the ribbed neckline, 3 sts per 4 rows. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 4. Begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*, p3. Work ribbing for 5 rows, then bind off in pattern.
Place markers for 10 buttons on the buttonband. The top button should be 2 cm from the top edge and the other 9 at approx. 9 cm intervals.
Pick up sts from the right front in the same manner. Work ribbing for 2 rows. Knit buttonholes at the marked spots as follows: k2tog, yarn over. Work ribbing for 2 rows, then bind off in pattern.
Sew the side seams and sleeve seams: sew 5 cm beginning at the cuff, leave a 4 cm hole for the thumb, sew the rest of the sleeve seam and the side seam.
Sew the pockets to the WS. Sew on the buttons.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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