Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Twist the yarn once around your finger and crochet into the loop:
Round 1: 5 double crochet (dc). Continue in the spiral, moving straight to the next row. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.
Round 2: work 2 dc into each st = 10 dc.
Round 3: *1 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 15 dc.
Round 4: *2 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 20 dc.
Round 5: *3 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 25 dc.
Round 6: *4 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 30 dc.
Round 7: *5 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 35 dc. Crochet 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the next st.
Begin working trebles and the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I: chain 5, skip 2 sts and work 1 dc into the next st, skip 2 sts and work into the next ch 1 + 1 tr + ch 1 + 1 tr + ch 1+ 1 tr + ch 1, skip 2 sts, work 1 dc into the next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts and work 1 tr into the next st. Crochet 22 more trebles and close the round with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning.
Continue the lace pattern from row 2 of the chart and crochet trebles at the trebles of the previous row. Keep repeating rows 2-5 of the chart.
Note: When you have worked 4 rounds, on the next round increase 1 tr on both sides of the lace pattern by working 2 tr into the first and last tr of the treble group. Repeat the increases in the same manner on every 4th round 2 more times = 28 tr + lace pattern.
When you have worked 14 rounds of the pattern and have last worked row 2 of the chart, work a heel opening on the next round: work the 13 lace pattern and then 3 tr. Then loosely chain 23, skip 22 tr, work 1 tr into the next tr, work to end of round. On the next round, work the pattern on the instep as established (continue from row 4) and begin another lace pattern at the heel opening from row 1 of chart II: work 5 tr, 13 st lace pattern, 5 tr (= 23 sts). Work to end of round. The lace patterns will progress in the same manner.
When you have worked 8 rounds after the heel opening, begin increases on both sides of the pattern on the back. On the next round increase 1 tr on both sides of the pattern by working 2 tr into the first and last tr of the treble group. Work 4 rounds without increases, then repeat the increases. Then repeat the increases on every 2nd round 5 times in total = 14 tr / tr group + lace patterns.
When you have worked 24 rounds after the heel opening and you have last worked row 3 of chart I, switch to working all the sts following the lace patterns. Begin the pattern at the treble groups from row 1 of chart III.
Crochet rows 2-7. Work 1 round of dc: 2 dc into each 1 st chain arch, 3 dc into each 2 st chain arch, and 4 dc into each 3 st chain arch. Close the round with 1 sl st into the 1st dc from the beginning. Break the yarn.
Heel: Join the yarn with 1 dc to one edge of the heel opening. Work 22 dc into both edges of the opening (1 dc into each st) and 3 dc around the trebles at the ends of the opening = 50 dc. Mark 1 st at both sides of the heel so that there are 24 dc between the marked sts. Continue crocheting in the spiral. On each round, decrease 1 st on both sides of the marked sts: *work until 2 sts remain before the marked st, crochet 2 dc together, work the marked st, crochet 2 dc together*, repeat *-* until approx. 10 sts remain. Break the yarn and pass it through the remaining sts. Pull tightly to close the hole and weave in.
Crochet the other sock to match.
Steam the socks lightly.
Twist the yarn once around your finger and crochet into the loop:
Round 1: 5 double crochet (dc). Continue in the spiral, moving straight to the next row. Place a marker at the beginning of the round.
Round 2: work 2 dc into each st = 10 dc.
Round 3: *1 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 15 dc.
Round 4: *2 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 20 dc.
Round 5: *3 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 25 dc.
Round 6: *4 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 30 dc.
Round 7: *5 dc, 2 dc into the next st*, repeat *-* 4 more times = 35 dc. Crochet 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the next st.
Begin working trebles and the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I: chain 5, skip 2 sts and work 1 dc into the next st, skip 2 sts and work into the next ch 1 + 1 tr + ch 1 + 1 tr + ch 1+ 1 tr + ch 1, skip 2 sts, work 1 dc into the next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts and work 1 tr into the next st. Crochet 22 more trebles and close the round with 1 sl st into the 3rd ch st from the beginning.
Continue the lace pattern from row 2 of the chart and crochet trebles at the trebles of the previous row. Keep repeating rows 2-5 of the chart.
Note: When you have worked 4 rounds, on the next round increase 1 tr on both sides of the lace pattern by working 2 tr into the first and last tr of the treble group. Repeat the increases in the same manner on every 4th round 2 more times = 28 tr + lace pattern.
When you have worked 14 rounds of the pattern and have last worked row 2 of the chart, work a heel opening on the next round: work the 13 lace pattern and then 3 tr. Then loosely chain 23, skip 22 tr, work 1 tr into the next tr, work to end of round. On the next round, work the pattern on the instep as established (continue from row 4) and begin another lace pattern at the heel opening from row 1 of chart II: work 5 tr, 13 st lace pattern, 5 tr (= 23 sts). Work to end of round. The lace patterns will progress in the same manner.
When you have worked 8 rounds after the heel opening, begin increases on both sides of the pattern on the back. On the next round increase 1 tr on both sides of the pattern by working 2 tr into the first and last tr of the treble group. Work 4 rounds without increases, then repeat the increases. Then repeat the increases on every 2nd round 5 times in total = 14 tr / tr group + lace patterns.
When you have worked 24 rounds after the heel opening and you have last worked row 3 of chart I, switch to working all the sts following the lace patterns. Begin the pattern at the treble groups from row 1 of chart III.
Crochet rows 2-7. Work 1 round of dc: 2 dc into each 1 st chain arch, 3 dc into each 2 st chain arch, and 4 dc into each 3 st chain arch. Close the round with 1 sl st into the 1st dc from the beginning. Break the yarn.
Heel: Join the yarn with 1 dc to one edge of the heel opening. Work 22 dc into both edges of the opening (1 dc into each st) and 3 dc around the trebles at the ends of the opening = 50 dc. Mark 1 st at both sides of the heel so that there are 24 dc between the marked sts. Continue crocheting in the spiral. On each round, decrease 1 st on both sides of the marked sts: *work until 2 sts remain before the marked st, crochet 2 dc together, work the marked st, crochet 2 dc together*, repeat *-* until approx. 10 sts remain. Break the yarn and pass it through the remaining sts. Pull tightly to close the hole and weave in.
Crochet the other sock to match.
Steam the socks lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.