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Apple Pullover Novita Muumitalo

Apple Pullover Novita Muumitalo

As low as €1.90

The Apple Pullover is worked from the top down. The rest of the pullover is worked in stripes in the round with a vertical stripe running down the centre back, which conveniently hides the jog usually created by working stripes in the round.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 31
Skill level Intermediate
Apple Pullover Novita Muumitalo
€7.50
€4.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€4.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€4.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€4.50
€7.50
€7.50
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -3.0 mm
€2.10
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Apple Pullover Novita Muumitalo
Apple Pullover Novita Muumitalo

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022031
    Pattern details
    Size
    0-6 kk (6-12 kk) 1-2 v (2-3 v)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Muumitalo (100g/225m)
    Yarn A: 1 (1, 2, 2) x 100g Moomintroll (007)
    Yarn B: 1 (1, 1, 1) x 100g Stinky (099)
    Yarn C: Small quantity of Snufkin (381)
     
    Yarn D: Small quantity of Novita Nordic Wool in Squirrel (645)


    Needles and other supplies
    Needles
    3.25mm (UK 10, US 3) 60-80cm circular needles as well as needles suitable for working flat and for working small circumferences in the round.
    4mm (UK 8, US 6) 60-80cm circular needles as well as needles suitable for working flat and for working small circumferences in the round.
    3mm crochet hook
     
    Notions
    1 button
    Tapestry needle
    Measuring tape
    Scissors
     


    Designer
    Amy Philip

    Details
    Top part of body
     
    Using Yarn A, Cast on 69 (73, 77, 81) on smaller needles (3.25mm) using the long tail method. Do not join to work in the round but work back and forth in 1 x 1 rib for 5 (5, 5, 5) rows. To create a neat edge, k the first st and slip the last st purlwise with yarn in front on all rows.
     
    Change to larger needles (4mm) and continue by working back and forth in stocking stitch while continuing to k the first st and slip the last st purlwise with yarn in front on all rows to create a neat edge.
     
    Set up row (WS): mark the raglan sts as follows.
     
    p 13 (13, 14, 15 ) for left back opening, PM, p 9 (10, 11, 11) for left sleeve, PM, p 25 (27, 27, 29) for front, PM, p (9, 10, 11, 11) for right sleeve, PM, p 13 (13, 14, 15) for right back opening.
     
    Continue working back and forth in stocking stitch with raglan increases on the RS rows as follows.
     
    Row 1 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end 8 sts increased, 77 (81, 85, 89) sts.
     
    Row 2 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 3 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. sts increased, 85 (89, 93, 97) sts
     
    Row 4 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 5 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. 8 sts increased 93, (97, 101, 105) sts
     
    Rows 6 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 7 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. 8 sts increased 101 (105, 109, 113) sts
     
    Row 8 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 9 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k to end. 8 sts increased 109 (113, 117, 121) sts.
     
    On the next row the stripe sequence begins. The stripe sequence is as follows:
     
    2 rows Yarn B
     
    8 rows Yarn A
     
    Row 10 (WS): Change to Yarn B, p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 11 (RS): Join the work by knitting the first and last sts together and continue by working in the round, PM to indicate beginning of round, [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. 8 sts increased and 1 st decreased 116 (120, 124, 128) sts remain.
     
     
    Continue Raglan Shaping in the round and set up vertical stripe down centre back.
     
    From this point, all rows begin and end with 1 st purled in Yarn B. This creates a decorative vertical stripe down the centre back of the jumper which hides the jog usually created by knitting stripes in the round. Make sure to twist Yarn A behind Yarn B as you would when working fair isle and pull the strands snug to avoid creating a ladder between the colours.
     
    Set up Row 1: p1 in Yarn B, k till last st, slipping markers as you go, p1 in Yarn B
     
    Set up Row 2: p1 in Yarn B, [k to marker, M1R, SM, K1, M1L] four times, k to last st, p1 in Yarn B. 8 sts increased. 124 (128, 132, 136) sts.
     
    Work Set up Rows 1 and 2 a further 7 (9, 12, 12) times till 180 (200, 228, 232)
     
     
    Divide Body and Sleeves as follows:
     
    p1 in Yarn B, k to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 36 (41, 48, 48) sts on holder for right sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 36 (41, 48, 48) sts on holder for left sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to last st, p1 in Yarn B. 116 (126, 140, 144) sts remain for body.
     
     
    Continue Body
     
    Continue working in the round in stripe sequence, always purling the first and last stitch with Yarn B until the work measures 8.5 (10.5, 12.5, 13.5)” / 21.5 (26.5, 31.5, 34) cm from centre front.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and working only in Yarn A, continue by working back and forth, again creating a neat edge by knitting the first st and slipping the last st purlwise with yarn in front on all rows.
     
    Work 5 (5, 5, 5) rows in 1x1 rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Sleeves (make 2)
     
    The sleeves are worked flat, going back and forth in stocking stitch following the stripe sequence as set in body, there is no need to restart the stripe sequence, simply start from where you left off when you divided the body and sleeves. Remember to carry Yarn B up the side of the work ready for the next stripe. Mirrored decreases are worked to shape the sleeves, while at the same time, the apple patch is placed and worked in intarsia following the chart. You will be doing three things at once; working in the set stripe sequence as well as both counting when to work the decrease rows and when to place the apple, so we recommend having a notebook handy so can keep a tally to help you remember where you are.
     
    With the front facing and using the larger needed (4mm), start in the centre of the 4 cast on sts at underarms, pick up and knit 2 cast on sts, knit across 36 (41, 48, 48) sleeve sts, pick up and knit the 2 remaining cast on sts at underarms. 40 (45, 52, 52) sts on needle
     
    Next Row (WS): p
     
    In this next section the sleeve is shaped with mirrored decreases as outlined below while adding the apple patch. Place the apple in the centre of the sleeve on Row 11 (13, 15, 20) (counted from where you have just picked up the previously held sleeve sts).
     
    Next Row: Decrease Row (RS): k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased, 38 (43, 50, 50) sts remain.
     
    Repeat this decrease row on 2 (3, 6, 6) following 6th (6th, 4th, 4th) rows till 34 (37, 38, 38) sts remain.
     
    Continue straight in stocking stitch till sleeve measures 5 (5.5, 7, 8.5)” / 12.5 (14, 17.5, 21.5) cm from underarm.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and work 5 rows in rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
    Finishing
     
    Add the stalk to the apple using duplicate stitch following the chart. Seam together sleeves using mattress stitch.
     
    Crochet a loop of chain sts at the top opening at the centre back and sew on a button on the opposite side.
     
    Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Chest Circumference 18/45.5 (20/51) 22/56 (23/58.5) Inch/cm
    Pullover Circumference 20/51 (22/56)25/64 (26/66) Inch/cm
    Pullover length          9.5/24(11.5/29) 13.5/34 (14.5/37) Inch/cm
    Sleeve length (from underarm) 6/15 (6.5/16.5) 8/20.5 (9.5/24) Inch/cm
    Wrist circumference   6/15 (6.5/16.5) 6.75/17(6.75/17) Inch/cm


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Stockinette st: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
    - Intarsia: all different-coloured fields are knitted with their own ball of yarn. Twist the different strands around each other on the WS to prevent holes at the colour changes.
     
    Tension
    22 stitches and 28 rows in 4” /10cm over stocking stitch on 4mm needles.
     
    Note
    The sweater is knitted top-down, first working flat to create a slit at the neck. The rest of the piece is knitted in stripes in the round, with a vertical stripe running down the centre back. The sleeves are worked flat and the apple patches in intarsia.
     
     
     


    Top part of body
     
    Using Yarn A, Cast on 69 (73, 77, 81) on smaller needles (3.25mm) using the long tail method. Do not join to work in the round but work back and forth in 1 x 1 rib for 5 (5, 5, 5) rows. To create a neat edge, k the first st and slip the last st purlwise with yarn in front on all rows.
     
    Change to larger needles (4mm) and continue by working back and forth in stocking stitch while continuing to k the first st and slip the last st purlwise with yarn in front on all rows to create a neat edge.
     
    Set up row (WS): mark the raglan sts as follows.
     
    p 13 (13, 14, 15 ) for left back opening, PM, p 9 (10, 11, 11) for left sleeve, PM, p 25 (27, 27, 29) for front, PM, p (9, 10, 11, 11) for right sleeve, PM, p 13 (13, 14, 15) for right back opening.
     
    Continue working back and forth in stocking stitch with raglan increases on the RS rows as follows.
     
    Row 1 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end 8 sts increased, 77 (81, 85, 89) sts.
     
    Row 2 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 3 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. sts increased, 85 (89, 93, 97) sts
     
    Row 4 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 5 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. 8 sts increased 93, (97, 101, 105) sts
     
    Rows 6 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 7 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. 8 sts increased 101 (105, 109, 113) sts
     
    Row 8 (WS): p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 9 (RS): [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times. k to end. 8 sts increased 109 (113, 117, 121) sts.
     
    On the next row the stripe sequence begins. The stripe sequence is as follows:
     
    2 rows Yarn B
     
    8 rows Yarn A
     
    Row 10 (WS): Change to Yarn B, p to end of row, slipping the markers as you go.
     
    Row 11 (RS): Join the work by knitting the first and last sts together and continue by working in the round, PM to indicate beginning of round, [k to marker, M1R, SM, k1, M1L] four times, k to end. 8 sts increased and 1 st decreased 116 (120, 124, 128) sts remain.
     
     
    Continue Raglan Shaping in the round and set up vertical stripe down centre back.
     
    From this point, all rows begin and end with 1 st purled in Yarn B. This creates a decorative vertical stripe down the centre back of the jumper which hides the jog usually created by knitting stripes in the round. Make sure to twist Yarn A behind Yarn B as you would when working fair isle and pull the strands snug to avoid creating a ladder between the colours.
     
    Set up Row 1: p1 in Yarn B, k till last st, slipping markers as you go, p1 in Yarn B
     
    Set up Row 2: p1 in Yarn B, [k to marker, M1R, SM, K1, M1L] four times, k to last st, p1 in Yarn B. 8 sts increased. 124 (128, 132, 136) sts.
     
    Work Set up Rows 1 and 2 a further 7 (9, 12, 12) times till 180 (200, 228, 232)
     
     
    Divide Body and Sleeves as follows:
     
    p1 in Yarn B, k to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 36 (41, 48, 48) sts on holder for right sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to marker, remove marker, k1, place next 36 (41, 48, 48) sts on holder for left sleeve, remove marker, CO 4 sts using backward loop method, k to last st, p1 in Yarn B. 116 (126, 140, 144) sts remain for body.
     
     
    Continue Body
     
    Continue working in the round in stripe sequence, always purling the first and last stitch with Yarn B until the work measures 8.5 (10.5, 12.5, 13.5)” / 21.5 (26.5, 31.5, 34) cm from centre front.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and working only in Yarn A, continue by working back and forth, again creating a neat edge by knitting the first st and slipping the last st purlwise with yarn in front on all rows.
     
    Work 5 (5, 5, 5) rows in 1x1 rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
     
    Sleeves (make 2)
     
    The sleeves are worked flat, going back and forth in stocking stitch following the stripe sequence as set in body, there is no need to restart the stripe sequence, simply start from where you left off when you divided the body and sleeves. Remember to carry Yarn B up the side of the work ready for the next stripe. Mirrored decreases are worked to shape the sleeves, while at the same time, the apple patch is placed and worked in intarsia following the chart. You will be doing three things at once; working in the set stripe sequence as well as both counting when to work the decrease rows and when to place the apple, so we recommend having a notebook handy so can keep a tally to help you remember where you are.
     
    With the front facing and using the larger needed (4mm), start in the centre of the 4 cast on sts at underarms, pick up and knit 2 cast on sts, knit across 36 (41, 48, 48) sleeve sts, pick up and knit the 2 remaining cast on sts at underarms. 40 (45, 52, 52) sts on needle
     
    Next Row (WS): p
     
    In this next section the sleeve is shaped with mirrored decreases as outlined below while adding the apple patch. Place the apple in the centre of the sleeve on Row 11 (13, 15, 20) (counted from where you have just picked up the previously held sleeve sts).
     
    Next Row: Decrease Row (RS): k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased, 38 (43, 50, 50) sts remain.
     
    Repeat this decrease row on 2 (3, 6, 6) following 6th (6th, 4th, 4th) rows till 34 (37, 38, 38) sts remain.
     
    Continue straight in stocking stitch till sleeve measures 5 (5.5, 7, 8.5)” / 12.5 (14, 17.5, 21.5) cm from underarm.
     
    Change to the smaller needles (3.25mm) and work 5 rows in rib. Cast off all sts in rib.
     
    Finishing
     
    Add the stalk to the apple using duplicate stitch following the chart. Seam together sleeves using mattress stitch.
     
    Crochet a loop of chain sts at the top opening at the centre back and sew on a button on the opposite side.
     
    Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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