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Anchor socks Novita Majakkasaari and Muumitalo

Anchor socks Novita Majakkasaari and Muumitalo

As low as €1.90

These socks feature an afterthought heel. The socks are designed for Novita Majakkasaari yarn.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 7
Skill level Intermediate
Anchor socks Novita Majakkasaari and Muumitalo
€8.90
€7.50
€7.50
€8.90
€7.50
€7.50
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Anchor socks Novita Majakkasaari and Muumitalo
Anchor socks Novita Majakkasaari and Muumitalo

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02207
    Pattern details
    Size
    38(42)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Majakkasaari
    (814) Our Sea <100(100) g,
    Novita Muumitalo
    (176) The Groke 50(50) g and
    Novita Muumitalo
    (007) Moomintroll 50(<100) g
     


    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles
    Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed to obtain gauge.


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Right sock
     
    Using The Groke cast on 54(60) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Distribute the sts: 13(15) sts on needles I and III, 14(15) sts on needles II and IV. The beginning of round is at the inner leg, between needles I and IV.
     
    Switch to Our Sea and knit 1 round.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Repeat the 18(20) st pattern 3 times. Work rows 2–41(43). The leg now measures approx. 17(18) cm.
     
    Resume the colourwork pattern on row 4 of chart I(II) and mark the place for the afterthought heel: work the first 27(30) sts using a different-coloured yarn. Work the same sts again following the chart. Work to end of round.
     
    Work rows 5–41(43) of the chart, then use The Groke for the rest of the sock.
     
    Note: When the foot measures approx. 14(16) cm after the heel marker, knit 1 round using The Groke and begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III, k1, k2tog; at the end of needles II and IV, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Work the decreases as established on every other round 2(3) more times and then 4(4) times on every round = 26(28) sts.
     
    Redistribute the sts evenly onto two needles, 13(14) sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.
     
     
    Afterthought heel
     
    Remove the scrap yarn. Pick up the sts on the top and bottom edges of the heel opening and 2 additional sts from both sides = 58(64) sts. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, with the beginning of round between the 2 added sts at the side of the heel = 14(16) sts on needles I and III, 15(16) sts on needles II and IV. Knit 1 round using The Groke.
     
    Begin decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III, k1, k2tog; at the end of needles II and IV, skp, k1. Repeat the decreases every other round 7(8) more times = 26(28) sts. Divide the remaining sts onto two needles, 13(14) sts on both sides of the heel. Graft the sts together.
     
     
    Left sock
     
    Work like right sock. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV (inner leg).
     
    Make the heel on needles III and IV.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Lightly steam the socks.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Colourwork in the round: work stockinette st following the chart and instructions.
     
    Gauge
    24 sts and 29 rows in colourwork = 10 cm / 4 in
     
    Note
    Twist the yarns around each other on the WS (at different points on back-to-back rows) to avoid floats longer than 5 sts.
     


    Right sock
     
    Using The Groke cast on 54(60) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Distribute the sts: 13(15) sts on needles I and III, 14(15) sts on needles II and IV. The beginning of round is at the inner leg, between needles I and IV.
     
    Switch to Our Sea and knit 1 round.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Repeat the 18(20) st pattern 3 times. Work rows 2–41(43). The leg now measures approx. 17(18) cm.
     
    Resume the colourwork pattern on row 4 of chart I(II) and mark the place for the afterthought heel: work the first 27(30) sts using a different-coloured yarn. Work the same sts again following the chart. Work to end of round.
     
    Work rows 5–41(43) of the chart, then use The Groke for the rest of the sock.
     
    Note: When the foot measures approx. 14(16) cm after the heel marker, knit 1 round using The Groke and begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III, k1, k2tog; at the end of needles II and IV, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Work the decreases as established on every other round 2(3) more times and then 4(4) times on every round = 26(28) sts.
     
    Redistribute the sts evenly onto two needles, 13(14) sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.
     
     
    Afterthought heel
     
    Remove the scrap yarn. Pick up the sts on the top and bottom edges of the heel opening and 2 additional sts from both sides = 58(64) sts. Distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, with the beginning of round between the 2 added sts at the side of the heel = 14(16) sts on needles I and III, 15(16) sts on needles II and IV. Knit 1 round using The Groke.
     
    Begin decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III, k1, k2tog; at the end of needles II and IV, skp, k1. Repeat the decreases every other round 7(8) more times = 26(28) sts. Divide the remaining sts onto two needles, 13(14) sts on both sides of the heel. Graft the sts together.
     
     
    Left sock
     
    Work like right sock. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV (inner leg).
     
    Make the heel on needles III and IV.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Lightly steam the socks.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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