Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Adult Cable Socks Novita 7 Veljestä Raita (7 Brothers Stripe)
As low as €5.95
Socks worked in Novita 7 Veljestä Raita (7 Brothers Stripe) yarn are embellished with a cable pattern. Stripes of the yarn make these socks colorful and vivid.
Novita Talvi 2015 -lehti (in Finnish)
44
Expert
Availability: In stock
N041544
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g
As low as
€5.95
Novita 7 Veljestä Raita
As low as
€7.96
Size
38[42]Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä Raita (off-white-grey-red) less than 150[150] gNovita 7 Veljestä (black) 50[100] g
Needles and other supplies
Set of 5 double-pointed 3,5 mm needlesDesigner
Minna MetsänenStitch pattern
Cable pattern in round: See chart. Rep rows 1-8.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Tension
21 sts to 10 cm measured over stocking st
Cable Cuff
Using black yarn cast on 20 sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
WS: Row 1: work from left end 20 st cable patt. Rep rows 2-9 7(8) times. Work rows 2-3[2-5]. Cast off sts. Join both cuff seams (=short edges) using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred carefully not stretching the seam longer than the cuff's width.
Leg
Pick up 56[66] sts from long edge of the cuff leaving every 4th row unpicked. Begin both socks with the same stripe color. Distribute sts over 4 of the 5 needles ( 14[16] sts on each needle) and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows:
Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart II.[III.] as folls:
Rnd 1: rep 14[16] st patt on each needle. Work rnds 1-33[35]. AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts on needle I. and IV. in cables during the last rnd. Break yarn.
Heel Flap and Gusset
Start the heel flap. Using black yarn knit sts of needle I. onto needle IV. =24[28] sts. Leave sts on needle II. and III.waiting. Work the 24[28] heel sts back and forth in rows as folls:
WS: Row 1: slip 1 st with yarn in front, purl to end.
RS: Row 2: * slip 1 st with yarn in back, K1, rep from * to end.
Rep rows 1-2 12(14) times =24[28] rows.
Work WS row.
Turn Heel
RS: Row 1: Work until you have 9[10] sts left on your left hand needle, sl1,K1,psso, turn.
WS: Row 2: slip 1 st with yarn in front, P6[8], P2tog, turn.
RS: Row 3: slip 1 st with yarn in back, work until you have 8[9] sts left on your left hand needle, sl1,K1,psso, turn.
Rep rows 2-3 until all sts have been worked, ending with a RS row. Note that the number of sts left on your left hand needle is decreased by one every other row. Divide 8[10] heel sts onto needle I. =4[5] sts and needle IV. =4[5] sts.
Needle I. : K4[5], pick up and knit 13[15] sts along left edge of heel flap
Needle II. and III.: cont in cable patt from chart (=rnd 34[36])
Needle IV: pick up and knit 13[15] sts along right edge of heel flap, K4[5].
Join for working in rnds. Work sts on needle I. and IV. in stocking st in round and sts on needle II. and III. in patt from chart. Work rnds 34-43[36-47] from chart.
Shape Gusset
Dec rnd 1: Needle I. : work until you have 2 sts left on needle I., K2tog
Needle II. and III.: cont in patt from chart
Needle IV: sl1,K1,psso, work to end.
Work 1 rnd.
Rep dec rnd every alt rnd until the amount of sts is on needle I. and needle IV. Is 13[15].
Foot
When you have worked rnd 43[47] of chart II.[III.] cont cable patt on needle II. and needle III. as folls:
Rnd 1: K4, P6[8], work 8 st cable patt from chart IV., P6[8], K4. Rep rnds 2-7.
Cont working until foot meas 19[23] cm or until foot covers your little toe.
Toe
Cont in stocking st in round. Work first decreses only on needle II. and III. as folls:
Needle I. : work to end of needle I.
Needle II. : K1, sl1,K1, psso, work to end of needle II.
Needle III.: work until you have 3 sts left on needle III., K2tog, K1
Needle IV: work to end.
Cont decreases on each needle as folls:
Rnd 1: Needle I. : work until you have 3 sts left on needle I., K2tog, K1
Needle II. : K1, sl1,K1, psso, work to end of needle II.
Needle III.: work until you have 3 sts left on needle III., K2tog, K1
Needle IV: K1, sl1,K1, psso, work to end of needle IV.
Work 1 rnd.
Rep rnd 1 every alt rnd until the amount of sts is 32 (8 on each needle).
Rep rnd 1 every rnd until the amount of sts is 8.
Break yarn leaving a long end. Pull end through all sts and tighten it. Weave in all ends.
To Make Up
Lightly steam the socks.
Finished dimensions
shoe size 38[42]Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patternCable pattern in round: See chart. Rep rows 1-8.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Tension
21 sts to 10 cm measured over stocking st
Stitch pattern
Cable pattern in round: See chart. Rep rows 1-8.
Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.
Tension
21 sts to 10 cm measured over stocking st
Cable Cuff
Using black yarn cast on 20 sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
WS: Row 1: work from left end 20 st cable patt. Rep rows 2-9 7(8) times. Work rows 2-3[2-5]. Cast off sts. Join both cuff seams (=short edges) using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred carefully not stretching the seam longer than the cuff's width.
Leg
Pick up 56[66] sts from long edge of the cuff leaving every 4th row unpicked. Begin both socks with the same stripe color. Distribute sts over 4 of the 5 needles ( 14[16] sts on each needle) and, taking care not to twist cast-on edge and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows:
Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in patt from chart II.[III.] as folls:
Rnd 1: rep 14[16] st patt on each needle. Work rnds 1-33[35]. AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sts on needle I. and IV. in cables during the last rnd. Break yarn.
Heel Flap and Gusset
Start the heel flap. Using black yarn knit sts of needle I. onto needle IV. =24[28] sts. Leave sts on needle II. and III.waiting. Work the 24[28] heel sts back and forth in rows as folls:
WS: Row 1: slip 1 st with yarn in front, purl to end.
RS: Row 2: * slip 1 st with yarn in back, K1, rep from * to end.
Rep rows 1-2 12(14) times =24[28] rows.
Work WS row.
Turn Heel
RS: Row 1: Work until you have 9[10] sts left on your left hand needle, sl1,K1,psso, turn.
WS: Row 2: slip 1 st with yarn in front, P6[8], P2tog, turn.
RS: Row 3: slip 1 st with yarn in back, work until you have 8[9] sts left on your left hand needle, sl1,K1,psso, turn.
Rep rows 2-3 until all sts have been worked, ending with a RS row. Note that the number of sts left on your left hand needle is decreased by one every other row. Divide 8[10] heel sts onto needle I. =4[5] sts and needle IV. =4[5] sts.
Needle I. : K4[5], pick up and knit 13[15] sts along left edge of heel flap
Needle II. and III.: cont in cable patt from chart (=rnd 34[36])
Needle IV: pick up and knit 13[15] sts along right edge of heel flap, K4[5].
Join for working in rnds. Work sts on needle I. and IV. in stocking st in round and sts on needle II. and III. in patt from chart. Work rnds 34-43[36-47] from chart.
Shape Gusset
Dec rnd 1: Needle I. : work until you have 2 sts left on needle I., K2tog
Needle II. and III.: cont in patt from chart
Needle IV: sl1,K1,psso, work to end.
Work 1 rnd.
Rep dec rnd every alt rnd until the amount of sts is on needle I. and needle IV. Is 13[15].
Foot
When you have worked rnd 43[47] of chart II.[III.] cont cable patt on needle II. and needle III. as folls:
Rnd 1: K4, P6[8], work 8 st cable patt from chart IV., P6[8], K4. Rep rnds 2-7.
Cont working until foot meas 19[23] cm or until foot covers your little toe.
Toe
Cont in stocking st in round. Work first decreses only on needle II. and III. as folls:
Needle I. : work to end of needle I.
Needle II. : K1, sl1,K1, psso, work to end of needle II.
Needle III.: work until you have 3 sts left on needle III., K2tog, K1
Needle IV: work to end.
Cont decreases on each needle as folls:
Rnd 1: Needle I. : work until you have 3 sts left on needle I., K2tog, K1
Needle II. : K1, sl1,K1, psso, work to end of needle II.
Needle III.: work until you have 3 sts left on needle III., K2tog, K1
Needle IV: K1, sl1,K1, psso, work to end of needle IV.
Work 1 rnd.
Rep rnd 1 every alt rnd until the amount of sts is 32 (8 on each needle).
Rep rnd 1 every rnd until the amount of sts is 8.
Break yarn leaving a long end. Pull end through all sts and tighten it. Weave in all ends.
To Make Up
Lightly steam the socks.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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