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Aamukaste (Morning Dew) cardigan Novita Baby Wool

As low as €3.80

As the pale morning sunlight slowly seeps in through the window, put your softest cardigan on and wait for the warmth to spread. This delicate cardigan with bobbles and lace is knitted from Novita Baby Wool, a DK yarn from 100 % wool.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 22
Skill level Intermediate
Aamukaste (Morning Dew) cardigan Novita Baby Wool
Novita circular needles 80 cm-3.5 mm
€3.80
Novita circular needles 80 cm-4.0 mm
€3.80

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Aamukaste (Morning Dew) cardigan Novita Baby Wool
Aamukaste (Morning Dew) cardigan Novita Baby Wool

In stock

€3.80

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012022
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS/S(M/L)XL/XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Baby Wool
    (135) Forget-Me-Not 500(600)700 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles
    (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and
    4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or size needed to obtain gauge

    Other supplies
    4 buttons

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    The ribbed hem has slits on the sides so it is knitted in three pieces.

    Using the smaller needles cast on 99(113)127 sts for the back piece and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work in ribbing. At both ends keep working 1 st in garter st for the slits.

    When the ribbing measures approx. 4,5 cm, finish on a WS row, break yarn and leave the sts on hold.

    Using the smaller needles cast on 44(51)58 sts for the left front piece and begin ribbing on the WS with p1(k1)p1. Work in ribbing. At the right end keep working 1 st in garter st.

    When the ribbing measures approx. 4,5 cm, finish on a WS row, break yarn and leave the sts on hold.

    Using the smaller needles cast on 44(51)58 sts for the right front piece and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work in ribbing. At the left end keep working 1 st in garter st.

    When the ribbing measures approx. 4,5 cm, finish on a WS row and join the pieces: move the 44(51)58 right front sts, 99(113)127 back sts and 44(51)58 left front sts onto the larger circular needle = 187(215)243 sts.

    Body

    RS: knit 43(50)57 right front sts, skp (= slip the last front st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), knit 97(111)125 back sts, k2tog (last back st + first front st), knit the 43(50)57 left front sts. Place side markers at the edges of the pieces (at the sts you worked together). 185(213)241 sts on the needles. Purl the WS row.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end, repeat the 14 st pattern 12(14)16 times, work the 15 sts at left. Work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24.

    When the piece measures 29(30)32 cm, on a WS row work to marker, bind off marked st, work to other marker, bind off marked st, work to end.

    Top right front

    Resume the lace pattern with the 43(50)57 right front sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

    Begin the slanted neckline on the first row (RS): k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 10 more times. Note: Each decrease in the lace pattern should be paired with a yarn over so that the number of sts doesn't change. If you aren't able to work the decrease, work them as knit sts instead.

    When the armhole measures 16(18)20 cm, on every other row at the left end bind off 3x8(10)11 sts and 1x8(9)13 sts for the shoulder.

    Top back

    Resume the lace pattern with the 97(111)125 back sts.

    When the armhole measures 16(18)20 cm, on every other row at both ends bind off 3x8(10)11 sts and 1x8(9)13 sts for the shoulders. Bind off the remaining 33 neckline sts.

    Top left front

    Resume the lace pattern with the 43(50)57 left front sts.

    Begin the slanted neckline on the first row (RS): work to last 2 sts, skp. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 10 more times.

    When the armhole measures 16(18)20 cm, on every other row at the right end bind off 3x8(10)11 sts and 1x8(9)13 sts for the shoulder.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles cast on 42(44)46 sts and work ribbing for 4,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1 st = 43(45)47 sts.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart II: work the 1(2)3 st(s) at the right end, repeat the 14 st pattern 2 times, work the 14(15)16 sts at left. Work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24.

    When the piece measures 11(9)7 cm, increase 1 st at both ends inside the edge sts (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 4,5(3,5)3 cm 6(9)12 more times = 57(65)73 sts. Work the increased sts following the chart and note that each decrease in the lace pattern should be paired with a yarn over so that the number of sts doesn't change. If you aren't able to work the decrease, work them as knit sts instead.

    When the piece measures 43(44)45 cm, bind off loosely.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. You can push the bobbles out with your finger to make them larger.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Border: Pick up and knit stitches from the RS onto the smaller circular needle. Start at the ribbing on the right front edge and pick up 1 st per row. At the lace section pick up 3 sts per 4 rows. Pick up 32 sts at the back neckline. On the other front piece pick up 3 sts per 4 rows at the lace section and 1 st per row at the ribbing. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 5 sts. Begin ribbing on the WS: p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-*, p2.

    When the border measures 1,5 cm, work buttonholes to the right border. The topmost buttonhole should be at the starting point of the neckline decreases, the lowest one 3 cm from the hem and the other two evenly in between. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.

    When the border measures 4 cm, loosely bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew on the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 102(116)130 cm / 40¼(45¾)51¼ in length 47(50)54 cm / 18½(19¾)21¼ in inner sleeve length 43(44)45 cm / 17(17¼)17¾ in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end. On the wrong side rows

    The ribbed hem has slits on the sides so it is knitted in three pieces.

    Using the smaller needles cast on 99(113)127 sts for the back piece and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work in ribbing. At both ends keep working 1 st in garter st for the slits.

    When the ribbing measures approx. 4,5 cm, finish on a WS row, break yarn and leave the sts on hold.

    Using the smaller needles cast on 44(51)58 sts for the left front piece and begin ribbing on the WS with p1(k1)p1. Work in ribbing. At the right end keep working 1 st in garter st.

    When the ribbing measures approx. 4,5 cm, finish on a WS row, break yarn and leave the sts on hold.

    Using the smaller needles cast on 44(51)58 sts for the right front piece and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work in ribbing. At the left end keep working 1 st in garter st.

    When the ribbing measures approx. 4,5 cm, finish on a WS row and join the pieces: move the 44(51)58 right front sts, 99(113)127 back sts and 44(51)58 left front sts onto the larger circular needle = 187(215)243 sts.

    Body

    RS: knit 43(50)57 right front sts, skp (= slip the last front st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), knit 97(111)125 back sts, k2tog (last back st + first front st), knit the 43(50)57 left front sts. Place side markers at the edges of the pieces (at the sts you worked together). 185(213)241 sts on the needles. Purl the WS row.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end, repeat the 14 st pattern 12(14)16 times, work the 15 sts at left. Work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24.

    When the piece measures 29(30)32 cm, on a WS row work to marker, bind off marked st, work to other marker, bind off marked st, work to end.

    Top right front

    Resume the lace pattern with the 43(50)57 right front sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

    Begin the slanted neckline on the first row (RS): k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 10 more times. Note: Each decrease in the lace pattern should be paired with a yarn over so that the number of sts doesn't change. If you aren't able to work the decrease, work them as knit sts instead.

    When the armhole measures 16(18)20 cm, on every other row at the left end bind off 3x8(10)11 sts and 1x8(9)13 sts for the shoulder.

    Top back

    Resume the lace pattern with the 97(111)125 back sts.

    When the armhole measures 16(18)20 cm, on every other row at both ends bind off 3x8(10)11 sts and 1x8(9)13 sts for the shoulders. Bind off the remaining 33 neckline sts.

    Top left front

    Resume the lace pattern with the 43(50)57 left front sts.

    Begin the slanted neckline on the first row (RS): work to last 2 sts, skp. Repeat the decrease on every 4th row 10 more times.

    When the armhole measures 16(18)20 cm, on every other row at the right end bind off 3x8(10)11 sts and 1x8(9)13 sts for the shoulder.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles cast on 42(44)46 sts and work ribbing for 4,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and work 2 rows in stockinette st. On the first row increase 1 st = 43(45)47 sts.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart II: work the 1(2)3 st(s) at the right end, repeat the 14 st pattern 2 times, work the 14(15)16 sts at left. Work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24.

    When the piece measures 11(9)7 cm, increase 1 st at both ends inside the edge sts (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 4,5(3,5)3 cm 6(9)12 more times = 57(65)73 sts. Work the increased sts following the chart and note that each decrease in the lace pattern should be paired with a yarn over so that the number of sts doesn't change. If you aren't able to work the decrease, work them as knit sts instead.

    When the piece measures 43(44)45 cm, bind off loosely.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. You can push the bobbles out with your finger to make them larger.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Border: Pick up and knit stitches from the RS onto the smaller circular needle. Start at the ribbing on the right front edge and pick up 1 st per row. At the lace section pick up 3 sts per 4 rows. Pick up 32 sts at the back neckline. On the other front piece pick up 3 sts per 4 rows at the lace section and 1 st per row at the ribbing. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 5 sts. Begin ribbing on the WS: p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-*, p2.

    When the border measures 1,5 cm, work buttonholes to the right border. The topmost buttonhole should be at the starting point of the neckline decreases, the lowest one 3 cm from the hem and the other two evenly in between. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.

    When the border measures 4 cm, loosely bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew on the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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