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Aallotar lace cardigan Novita Wool Cotton

Aallotar lace cardigan Novita Wool Cotton

As low as €0.00

Aalto means wave, and Aallotar would be something like “she-of-the-waves”, a name given to mythical figures of old. Waves are the lead theme for this cardigan by Sari Nordlund - enjoy!
Magazine Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 23
Skill level Intermediate

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Aallotar lace cardigan Novita Wool Cotton
Aallotar lace cardigan Novita Wool Cotton

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€0.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022023
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Wool Cotton
    (010) Off White 450(500)550(600)650(700) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3½–4 mm (UK 8–9 / US 4–6) and
    4–4½ mm (UK 7–8 / US 6–7) or sizes needed to obtain gauge
     
    Other supplies
    6 buttons


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Back
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 90(98)106(114)122(130) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with p2. Work ribbing for 5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work 4 rows in stockinette st. On the first row evenly increase 3 sts = 93(101)109(117)125(133) sts.
     
    *Begin the 1st lace stripe on row 1 of chart I(II)III(IV)V(VI): work the 8(1)5(9)2(6) st(s) at the right end of the chart, repeat the 11 st pattern 7(9)9(9)11(11) times, work the 8(1)5(9)2(6) st(s) at left. Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–4 twice.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    Begin the 2nd lace stripe on row 1 of chart VII: work 1 st at right, then keep repeating the 2 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 2–10 of the chart.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.* Repeat *–* for the rest of the piece.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48(49) cm, bind off 1x4 sts at both ends for the armholes and on every other row decrease 5x1 st at both ends = 75(83)91(99)107(115) sts. Note: Each decrease in the lace pattern must be paired with a yarn over to maintain the number of sts. If you can’t work both the decrease and the yo, knit the sts instead.
     
     
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)22(23) cm, securely bind off the middle 27(27)27(29)29(29) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.
     
    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24(25) cm, bind off the remaining 20(24)28(31)35(39) shoulder sts. Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Left front
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 43(47)51(55)59(63) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. Work ribbing for 5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    *Begin the 1st lace stripe on row 1 of chart I(II)III(IV)V(VI): work the 8(1)5(9)2(6) st(s) at right, repeat the 11 st pattern 3(4)4(4)5(5) times, k2. Keep working 2 sts at the left end in stockinette st. Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–4 twice.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    Begin the 2nd lace stripe on row 1 of chart VII: work 1 st at right, then keep repeating the 2 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 2–10 of the chart.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.* Repeat *–* for the rest of the piece.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 39(40)41(42)43(44) cm, decrease 1 st at the left end for the neckline: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 1,5(1,5)2(1,5)1,5(2) cm 13(13)13(14)14(14) more times.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48(49) cm, bind off 1x4 sts at the right end and on every other row decrease 5x1 st at the right end.
     
    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24(25) cm, bind off the remaining 20(24)28(31)35(39) shoulder sts.
     
     
    Right front
     
    Mirror left front. At the neckline work skp decreases (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over).
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 46(46)48(50)50(52) sts and work ribbing for 5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work 4 rows in stockinette st. On the first row decrease 1 st = 45(45)47(49)49(51) sts.
     
    *Begin the 1st lace stripe on row 1 of chart I. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Keep repeating the 11 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–4 twice.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    Begin the 2nd lace stripe on row 1 of chart VII: work 1 st at right, then keep repeating the 2 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 2–10 of the chart.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.* Repeat *–* for the rest of the piece.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 11(7)6(13)9(7) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2,5)2,5(2)2(2) cm 13(15)16(17)19(20) more times = 73(77)81(85)89(93) sts.
     
    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off 1x4 sts at both ends and then on every other row decrease 5x1 sts at both ends. Bind off remaining sts.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Border: Using the smaller circular needle pick up and knit sts from the front edges and back neckline. Start on the RS at the bottom corner of the right front piece. Pick up 20 sts per 10 cm. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 4. Begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p3.
     
    When the border measures approx. 0,5 cm, make buttonholes on the right front. The topmost buttonhole should be at the starting point of the neckline decreases, the lowest one approx. 3(3)4(4)5(5) cm from the hem and the others evenly in between. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.
     
    When the ribbing measures 2,5 cm, bind off in pattern.
     
    Attach the sleeves following the red marks on the pattern.
     
    Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.
     
    Sew on the buttons.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference approx. 90(98)106(114)122(130) cm / 35½(38½)41¾(45)48(51¼) in
    length approx. 64(66)68(70)72(74) cm / 25¼(26)26¾(27½)28¼(29¼) in
    inner sleeve length 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm / 18(18½)19(19¼)19¼(19¾) in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Lace pattern: follow the chart and instructions.
     
    Gauge 20 sts in lace pattern or stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in


    Back
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 90(98)106(114)122(130) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with p2. Work ribbing for 5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work 4 rows in stockinette st. On the first row evenly increase 3 sts = 93(101)109(117)125(133) sts.
     
    *Begin the 1st lace stripe on row 1 of chart I(II)III(IV)V(VI): work the 8(1)5(9)2(6) st(s) at the right end of the chart, repeat the 11 st pattern 7(9)9(9)11(11) times, work the 8(1)5(9)2(6) st(s) at left. Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–4 twice.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    Begin the 2nd lace stripe on row 1 of chart VII: work 1 st at right, then keep repeating the 2 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 2–10 of the chart.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.* Repeat *–* for the rest of the piece.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48(49) cm, bind off 1x4 sts at both ends for the armholes and on every other row decrease 5x1 st at both ends = 75(83)91(99)107(115) sts. Note: Each decrease in the lace pattern must be paired with a yarn over to maintain the number of sts. If you can’t work both the decrease and the yo, knit the sts instead.
     
     
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)22(23) cm, securely bind off the middle 27(27)27(29)29(29) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.
     
    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24(25) cm, bind off the remaining 20(24)28(31)35(39) shoulder sts. Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Left front
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 43(47)51(55)59(63) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *–*. Work ribbing for 5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    *Begin the 1st lace stripe on row 1 of chart I(II)III(IV)V(VI): work the 8(1)5(9)2(6) st(s) at right, repeat the 11 st pattern 3(4)4(4)5(5) times, k2. Keep working 2 sts at the left end in stockinette st. Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–4 twice.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    Begin the 2nd lace stripe on row 1 of chart VII: work 1 st at right, then keep repeating the 2 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 2–10 of the chart.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.* Repeat *–* for the rest of the piece.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 39(40)41(42)43(44) cm, decrease 1 st at the left end for the neckline: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 1,5(1,5)2(1,5)1,5(2) cm 13(13)13(14)14(14) more times.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)48(49) cm, bind off 1x4 sts at the right end and on every other row decrease 5x1 st at the right end.
     
    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24(25) cm, bind off the remaining 20(24)28(31)35(39) shoulder sts.
     
     
    Right front
     
    Mirror left front. At the neckline work skp decreases (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over).
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 46(46)48(50)50(52) sts and work ribbing for 5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work 4 rows in stockinette st. On the first row decrease 1 st = 45(45)47(49)49(51) sts.
     
    *Begin the 1st lace stripe on row 1 of chart I. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Keep repeating the 11 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–4 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–4 twice.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.
     
    Begin the 2nd lace stripe on row 1 of chart VII: work 1 st at right, then keep repeating the 2 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 2–10 of the chart.
     
    Work 4 rows in stockinette st.* Repeat *–* for the rest of the piece.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 11(7)6(13)9(7) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2,5)2,5(2)2(2) cm 13(15)16(17)19(20) more times = 73(77)81(85)89(93) sts.
     
    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off 1x4 sts at both ends and then on every other row decrease 5x1 sts at both ends. Bind off remaining sts.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the shoulder seams.
     
    Border: Using the smaller circular needle pick up and knit sts from the front edges and back neckline. Start on the RS at the bottom corner of the right front piece. Pick up 20 sts per 10 cm. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 4. Begin ribbing: (WS) p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *–*, p3.
     
    When the border measures approx. 0,5 cm, make buttonholes on the right front. The topmost buttonhole should be at the starting point of the neckline decreases, the lowest one approx. 3(3)4(4)5(5) cm from the hem and the others evenly in between. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.
     
    When the ribbing measures 2,5 cm, bind off in pattern.
     
    Attach the sleeves following the red marks on the pattern.
     
    Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.
     
    Sew on the buttons.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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