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"My Story" long knitted socks Novita 7 Veljestä

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These beautiful socks are an ideal way to use your stash of scrap yarn! Knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä and Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 51
Skill level Expert
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N031851
Pattern details
Size
One size

Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä
(060) Sand less than 100 g and
(010) Off White,
(047) Lichen,
(043) Stone,
(044) Graphite,
(053) Berry Porridge,
(588) Cherry,
(021) Petrol, less than 50 g each, and

Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola
(800) Saana,
(894) Luosto,
(845) Halti,
(835) Levi, less than 50 g each

Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) or
size needed to obtain gauge

Designer
Irina Valtonen

Details

Using the Stone colour, cast on 64 sts and divide them onto four needles, 16 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm and on the last round increase 1 st on each needle = 68 sts, 17 sts each.

Begin the colourwork pattern from row 1 of the chart. Keep working the pattern repeat to end of round. Work rows 2-85.

On rows 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 and 70 decrease 1 st at the beginning and end of the round by k2tog (first 2 sts and last 2 sts). 50 sts on the needles after the decreases. Redistribute the sts so that you have 13 sts on needles I and IV and 12 sts on needles II and III.

When you have worked row 85 of chart I, begin the heel flap. Using the Sand colour, knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV (= 26 sts). Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

Row 1: slip 1, purl to end. Turn work.

Row 2: *slip 1, knit 1*, repeat *-* 12 more times.

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 12 times (= 24 rows).

Work another WS row and begin turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. On the heel flap, work a RS row until 9 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, distribute them onto two needles, 5 sts each. Continue the colourwork pattern from row 86 of chart II with the Sand yarn.

Pick up 12 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 12 sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV.

With these 60 sts, work rows 87-130 of chart II. At the same time begin the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, skp at the beginning of needle IV. Work the decreases in the same manner on rows 89, 92, 95, and 99. 50 sts now on the needles (= 13, 12, 12, and 13 sts).

On row 124, decrease 1 st on needles I and IV = 48 sts, 12 sts each. Begin the toe decreases on row 125: k2tog in the middle and end of each needle = 40 sts. Work 4 rounds without decreases (rows 126-129) and then repeat the decreases on row 130 = 32 sts. Use the Stone yarn for the rest of the sock. Work 3 rounds without decreases and then repeat the decreases = 24 sts. Work 1 less round without decreases after each decrease round. Continue decreasing in the established manner until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it through the sts, and securely weave in.

Knit the other sock to match.

Finishing

Steam the socks lightly.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
38 (EUR shoe size)

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing in the round:
*k2, p2*

Using the Stone colour, cast on 64 sts and divide them onto four needles, 16 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm and on the last round increase 1 st on each needle = 68 sts, 17 sts each.

Begin the colourwork pattern from row 1 of the chart. Keep working the pattern repeat to end of round. Work rows 2-85.

On rows 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65 and 70 decrease 1 st at the beginning and end of the round by k2tog (first 2 sts and last 2 sts). 50 sts on the needles after the decreases. Redistribute the sts so that you have 13 sts on needles I and IV and 12 sts on needles II and III.

When you have worked row 85 of chart I, begin the heel flap. Using the Sand colour, knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV (= 26 sts). Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

Row 1: slip 1, purl to end. Turn work.

Row 2: *slip 1, knit 1*, repeat *-* 12 more times.

Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 12 times (= 24 rows).

Work another WS row and begin turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. On the heel flap, work a RS row until 9 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, distribute them onto two needles, 5 sts each. Continue the colourwork pattern from row 86 of chart II with the Sand yarn.

Pick up 12 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 12 sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV.

With these 60 sts, work rows 87-130 of chart II. At the same time begin the gusset decreases: k2tog at the end of needle I, skp at the beginning of needle IV. Work the decreases in the same manner on rows 89, 92, 95, and 99. 50 sts now on the needles (= 13, 12, 12, and 13 sts).

On row 124, decrease 1 st on needles I and IV = 48 sts, 12 sts each. Begin the toe decreases on row 125: k2tog in the middle and end of each needle = 40 sts. Work 4 rounds without decreases (rows 126-129) and then repeat the decreases on row 130 = 32 sts. Use the Stone yarn for the rest of the sock. Work 3 rounds without decreases and then repeat the decreases = 24 sts. Work 1 less round without decreases after each decrease round. Continue decreasing in the established manner until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it through the sts, and securely weave in.

Knit the other sock to match.

Finishing

Steam the socks lightly.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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